Monday, 17 September 2012

Keeping It Cool Sevigny Style for Twin Magazine Blog



If anyone can make the Seventies look modern again, it would have to be Chloë Sevigny.
Clad in psychedlic print silk shirts, boyfriend cut blazers, mirror-appliqué minidresses and chunky loafers, the queen of indie cinema and quirky fashion stars as the face of Miu Miu’s A/W 12 campaign and short film, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. It may be Miuccia Prada’s fine tuning in cut, fabric and colour or just simply the fact that the 37-year-old actress can pull off anything and everything she wears, but despite its references there is not an ounce of retro stiffness to this collection.
Backed by the nonchalant tunes of American pop duo Phanotgram, the accompanyng video exudes the same wonderfully laissez-faire attitude of coolness. Having previously fronted the brand’s S/S 96 campaign, it becomes clear that even 16 years on, Sevigny’s still got it.

Read the full article here.

Wang's Way for Twin Magazine Blog




For his A/W 12 collection, Alexander Wang put on quite the visual spectacle – mirrors, supermodel reunions and all – making his minimalist campaign lensed by David Sims and starring Kati Nescher a complete departure, but no less captivating.
The New York designer’s collection, inspired by the surrealist manipulation of fabrics, is presented in simple black and white studio photographs, all the better for highlighting Wang’s clean-lined tailoring and outerwear invigorated by accents such as the Cubist slicing of a high-collared coat or slightly macabre mouth-covering fishnet turtlenecks.
In the span of five short and extremely successful years, Wang has progressed from painfully hip downtown designer to a creator with finesse and these images are just the thing to prove it.

Read the full article here.

London's Opening Ceremony for Twin Magazine Blog


Overly cool brand Opening Ceremony has garnered a cult status through its locations in cities like New York and Tokyo. Luckily for us, London is finally getting a piece of the action, thanks to the launch of label’s first UK shop yesterday. Set in Covent Garden, the 3,000-square-foot pop up store has been opened to coincide with the Olympic Games starting later this month and the company’s ten-year anniversary in September.
The brand has already collaborated with the likes of Chloë Sevigny and Rodarte, but to mark the London O.C. takeover, designers including adidas, Norma Kamali, Topshop, Band of Outsiders, Charles Anastase, Christopher Shannon, House of Holland, Pamela Love and Proenza Schouler have created exclusive capsule collections for the store.
Combined with a selection of rare books curated by the Claire de Rouen team and set in a neon-coloured, geometric shape-decorated landscape courtesy of Studio Toogood, it’s safe to say we have found ourselves a new retail paradise. Let the shopping games begin.


Read the full article here.

Yayoi Kusama x Louis Vuitton for Twin Magazine Blog


At first glance, Yayoi Kusama and the house of Louis Vuitton may not seem like the most harmonious couple. One is an eccentric artist known for her psychedelic installations, the other is a luxurious and world-renowned label under the multi-billion pound LVMH helm. However, just like in one of the Japanes artist’s polka dot paintings, there is more than meets the eye.

Both Kusama and Vuitton embody the idea of plunging oneself headfirst into an artistic vision. As much as the flame red-haired Kusama is an artwork in her own right, the house of Louis Vuitton, under the guidance of Marc Jacobs, has made train journey and carousel ride runway shows a continuously extraordinary event of the Ready To Wear season, year in, year out.
This month sees the release of the duo’s range of clothing, accessories and footwear, all covered in Kusama’s signature polka dot prints, coinciding with the opening of the artist’s exhibition at the Whitney Museum of American Art. On August 24, Kusama’s designs for the house will also take over London department store Selfridges with a 24-window display showcasing the new collection, as well as the transformation of the Concept Store inside, thanks to the artist’s signature giant pumpkins. The idea of fashion being art may seem like a tired cliche, but Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton prove there is still a lot of exciting invigoration to bring to the table.

Read the full article here.



Arizona Muse x G-Star for Twin Magazine Blog



Arizona Muse managed to shoot campaigns for the likes of Prada, Fendi and Yves Saint Laurent almost as soon as she placed foot on her first catwalk four years ago. Since her debut, the 23-year-old’s intense gaze, bold brows and all-around versatility have secured her a spot as one of the highest-ranking models in the industry.
This season, the Tucson-born beauty works her effortlessly cool look to maximum effect as G-Star’s new brand ambassador in the label’s Autumn/Winter 2012 campaign. Photographed by Anton Corbijn against an alpine backdrop, the result is a set of powerful and captivating black and white images. They don’t call her Muse for nothing.

Read the full article here.

The Couture Collective for Twin Magazine Blog



This year’s Autumn/Winter 2012 haute couture shows were another testament to signature style. Be it the modern romance of Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli or Giambattista Valli’s ever-enticing plays on volume and silhouettes, the one unifying factor  throughout every collection was a representation of each brand’s true essence, underlined by highly-refined tailoring and draping.

Twin selects our favourite personal visions of the season…

Bouchra Jarrar
Couture cool is Jarrar’s calling card and although those expecting overtly dramatic ball gowns or extravagant embellishments from couture may be disappointed, her softly draped tunic dresses and forties-esque trench coat top and A-line, knife-pleated skirt combinations add a modern yet elegant touch to the couture circuit. As they say, sometimes less is more.

Chanel
This season Karl Lagerfeld saw it as his mission to put a new spin on vintage. While the collection managed to revamp classics such as the tweed suit, tea dresses and peter pan collars in a colour palette that included soft shades such as petal rose and cream, its true appeal was in the unmatchable craftsmanship of the house of Chanel. Hundred upon hundreds of hand-sewn sequins and a breathtaking feather, lace and tulle finale dress were just two examples that further solidified the label’s spot at the top of couture pyramid.

Dior
Couture week undoubtedly belonged to Raf Simons. Although he might have not been the most obvious successor to Galliano’s theatrical showings, the Belgian designer’s minimalist aesthetic has proved the perfect partner to Christian Dior’s original elegant and strongly feminine designs. Peplum waist tops and dresses paired with straight cut trousers, not to mention the two-sided evening gowns with crystal embellishments put a refreshingly modern spin on New Look-esque silhouettes.

Gambattista Valli
Nymph creatures and a fairytale narrative were woven into every fibre of Valli’s designs. Rich emerald greens and ruby garnet florals were printed on high-necked ruffled cocktail dresses and evening gowns cinched in at the waist with gold ivy belts. With a beautiful play of volume and colour, the collection was an all-round dream.

Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci’s tribal warrior was equipped with face-obscuring sunglasses and menacing dogs, but that didn’t keep the collection from being feminine and alluring, thanks to halter necklines and iridescent ombre fringing. In short, it was a well-balanced mixture of elegance, urbanism and the beauty of nature.
Maison Martin Margiela
In the light of the brand’s upcoming collaboration with high street retailer H&M, some fear that the house of Margiela will succumb to commercialism. However this collection was a piece of avant-garde artistry. From the crystal face masks to the dynamic collages of fabric and textures. Refreshing and original, it proved why Maison Martin Margiela more than deserves a permanent spot on the haute couture schedule.

Valentino
Midnight blue dresses, fully-sequined, brocade printed and embroidered cocktail pieces, as well as floor-length pleated chiffon gowns made this collection one of typical Valentino glamour, whilst  canary yellow, magenta and blood red added rich pops of colour. In our eyes, Chiuri and Piccioli can do no wrong.

Read the full article here.

Mel Karch Interview for A Shaded View On Fashion


Thirteen years ago, Mel Karch started her career doing black and white reportage photography on the Kings of the Ivory Coast in Africa. After assisting photographers such as Annie Leibovitz and Marc Seliger, she has gone on to work for clients including the New York Times, Japanese Vogue and Kenzo.
Her latest body of work, MOMENTS, which will exhibit at Clic Gallery NY next month, was compiled over the course of 6 years of location scouting for Marie Claire Italy. The result is a glamourised ode to the American landscape, be it in the form of solitary suburbia or Hollywood iconography.
In the following interview, Karch discusses her universe of creativity, biblical influences and inspirational travels...

Having grown up in Germany and studied in Paris, why did you decide to focus on Americana instead?
The American landscape, architecture and history is where I get most of my inspiration. I started 7 years ago with projects in Los Angeles and New York for Marie Claire Italy. For each assignment I would arrange a separate road trip to find the places I was looking for, For me, the location makes up a big part of the story that I have in mind. It is the place where I will execute my inspiration.
Who do you remember as the first photographer to have a profound impact on you?
About 15 years ago, I discovered a book of Walker Evans and was fascinated by his strong black and white portraits capturing moments in life. But I think I'm more inspired by the history of photography then by any paritcular photographer.
Over time, I have collected a kind of 'reservoir' of images based on memories and dreams, but also different film scenes and dated photos. I am also inspired by the minor details, scenes and light of everyday life- all of these things are a part of every one of us - and painters such as Balthus, Edward Hopper and David Hockney.
What was the most important lesson you learned while assisting photographers such as Annie Leibovitz and Marc Seliger?
I think it is very important to be faithful to one's own style and vision in order to create a universe of work within itself. 
The images for MOMENTS were taken while location scouting for Marie Claire Italy. What was your working experience there like and how did it segue into this photography project?
Accompanying the exhibition is a book containing a selection of 78 colour and black and white polaroid which were taken to prepare for the project, to find the locations where each story could talk place. For the last seven years of the collaboration with Marie Claire Italy (2005-2011), I was lucky enough to visit some of the most beautiful parts of the world.
It was nearly an addiction for me to find the perfect locations for the upcoming shoots, most of which were done in the States. Before each project, I would arrange a separate road trip for myself to find the place for the story I had in my mind. Sometimes I ended up choosing a completely different location from the original idea, but the search itself was such a rich experience and made up a big part of my stories.
When I would go on these trips, to familiarize myself with a place, to find an ideal site, and to pique my curiosity, I would often forget who I was and where I came from. In order to find the right location and to show my progress in the composition of each image, I liked to work with Polaroid Instant Film. These instant images of the idea that I had in mind worked in the same way as a a sketchbook does for a painter, and were also a tremendous help, allowing me to check some technical details before the shoot.
There is a cinematic feeling to your images. What influence does film have on you and what directors inspire you most?
The universe of my work comes from a wish to see and a wish to narrate. I always start with a specific location. The chosen location is the beginning of the story. It is such a wonderful thing to tell stories, and my ideas come from a reservoir of images and scenes from the film in my head. I'm inspired by Ingmar Bergman, David Lynch and Wim Wender to name a few.
Your work has been praised for its "biblical symbolism and dream-like surrealism". How do you see these topics reflected in your work?
The significance of biblical symbolism concerns a particular project earlier on in my career, a triptych consisting of La Pieta, Women With Fish and Jesus Portrait, for which I was awarded the Fuji Prize for Young Fashion Photographers in 2006. I see them as interpreting the bible in a contemporary way.
I think that the minimalistic composition of my images, underlined by a cinematographic lighting, gives them a dream-like surrealism. Each images is a captured moment in life which helps constitute my universe.
What is the creative process behind each image?
When I look back on seven years of work, I think of how beautiful it is to have had the possibility to express oneself in one's own universe of creativity. Creativity is the basis of self-expression. Creation is the birth of something and something cannot come from nothing. It comes from a passion, from a willingness to create something like a painting, a poem, a photograph. Creativity comes from an experience and perspective, from emotion, or from a combination of ideas. Creativity is the desire to express ourselves. To describe these expressions, one must collect experiences, dreams and desires together and mix them with something that comes from inside oneself, a way of seeing the world. The most satisfying thing is to find people who have the same or a similar vision. In my few years of working, I've had the luck to meet several very special people, and I am more than glad to have had this rich experience.
A majority of your images are either black and white or use faded colour. What is the intention behind this, do you feel it gives a sense of timelessness that could not be conveyed otherwise?
Indeed, the desaturated colours give a timelessness to the images and I use it to mix colour and black and white images within stories. I think the black and white images have such a strong appearance, the capturing of the moment being photographed becomes essential.
What are your plans for the future?
I would like to continue doing road trips, traveling and experiencing different situations, filling my reservoir of images. This would be fantastic and a truly natural progression.

MEL KARCH, MOMENTS opens at Clic Gallery NY next month. The accompanying publication is out not and available atwww.clicgallery.com and www.melkarch.com.

Later,
Carla

Read the full interview here.

Wednesday, 11 July 2012

Crazy.Sexy.Cool. For Twin Magazine Blog


London-born photographer Kate Bellm’s work is all about letting loose. But don’t let the carefree attitude behind her images fool you: with her colourful and striking images, the young talent has already worked for clients such as Adidas, Harrods and Fleet Ilya, as well as exhibited at venues such as the Galerie M. H. Karst in Paris, alongside household names such as Terry Richardson and Nick Knight.
Twin caught up with the photography wünderkind to chat about cosmopolitan creative contrasts, Guy Bourdin and why nudity equals freedom…
What first sparked your interest in photography?
I liked everything about photography from the moment I started: playing around with different techniques in the darkroom and in camera, meeting different people all the time and making imaginary scenarios and memories that are all yours. My favourite thing about it is definitely the memories you save, imagining the photos in 30 years time when you look back on these small worlds of different people who have travelled and inspired you for all the shots.
Working between Berlin and London, what creative differences do you see between the two cities?
For me they are worlds apart. Berlin is all about characters and crazy shoots, freedom, nature and getting naked, breaking into old houses and shooting amazing untouched spots. I feel like a lot in London has been seen before as so much photography is done there and obviously the work is much more commercial and fashion based. Nevertheless, I am inspired there too, by my family and where I grew up in the countryside which evidently is the location for most of my shoots in England.
Some of your photos have a quite Guy Bourdin-esque feel to them, would you say that he is a big influence? Where else do you find inspiration?
Yeah, he totally inspires me. I have had all his books since I was a teenager and actually was just in a group show with his work! [The ICONS OF TOMORROW exhibit at Christophe Guye Galerie in Zurich] That was definitely a dream come true. Also, I am really inspired by all my friends in Berlin right now, they always come by my studio and together we think of crazy new techniques to develop my photos with and have big painting and illustration sessions together.
On the subject of Bourdin, what role does sexuality play in your work?
I just love sexy photos. I mean it’s not even underlying anymore for me unless I’m working it into a fashion shoot. I like shooting my friends naked, for me it’s complete freedom!
As female photographer how do you attempt to represent women in your images?
I represent them as free and having a good time in whatever situation we find ourselves in. I want people to realise that naked images are not a big deal, it’s actually more a state of mind of being happy with your body. But somehow without even realising it, the girls always look insanely sexy.
What work can we expect to see from you in the future?
More road trips, naked girls, skateboarders and paint bombs. Issue 2 of my zine ROCKERS is coming out next week. It will be a Girls edition, so full of all my favourite ladies. I also have a group show coming up in Berlin in September where we are building an acid forest full of colour-painted wood, space skate ramps, wigwams, bone chandeliers and other mystical wonders. Watch out for it on my blog: katesworld.tumblr.com.

katebellm.com

First Resort for Twin Magazine Blog



From secondary season to fully-fledged collections in their own right, this past year’s fashion cycle has all been about the rise of resort. Offering the ideal transition from autumn to summer, as well as designers an opportunity to prolong their retail exposure, the season has once and for all stepped out of its main collection sister’s shadow.
From Chloé’s countryside romanticism to Givenchy’s downtown gypsy look, Twin chooses our favourite not-so-in-between collections of the season…
Alexander Wang
Wang’s aesthetic has increasingly matured since his prolific rise and this collection was a clear departure from those tank top and knit beanie days.
The designer still kept his downtown cool thanks to streamlined sleeveless puffa jackets and midriff-baring vests in patent and croc leather, but by offsetting them with front-pleated, pegged trousers and refined chiffon dresses, the looks went from everyday casual to New Yorker chic.

Celine
Every season, through the slightest tweak of a silhouette or colour alteration, Phoebe Philo manages to conjure up a new line of fashion must-haves.
Progressing from her sportswear influenced A/W 12 showing, this collection was a combination of relaxed silhouettes such as wide-legged trousers and leather jumper/jogger combos, but added that typical Celine elegance through geometric prints, clean lines and a largely black and white-colour palette.

Chloé
Chloé designer Clare Waight Keller headed to the country for this collection, but those expecting Little House On The Prairie type looks are in for a big surprise.
Instead Keller took the best inspirations of rural life – think pale skye blue and neutrals, ethnic prints and crochet patterns – and infused it into the brand’s laid back romantic DNA, resulting in lightweight harem trousers, smock dresses,  waist-tie tops and scallop-edged shorts made for a summer in the city.

Christian Dior
An appropriate mix of historical references and contemporary elegance, these looks found their strength in the house of Dior’s archetypal look.
Classical waist-cinching shift dresses and tops with peplum hems were paired with cropped straight leg trousers and romantic knife-pleated chiffon skirts, whilst leather accents gave the whole collection a strikingly modern feel.

Givenchy
Presented in a street style photography approach, Riccardo Tisci fused strong tailoring with paisley and geometric prints for an urban bohemian look.
Leather and motif-printed capes stood alongside more relaxed silhouettes of harem trousers and silk shift dresses for a look that was truly Givenchy, but as always, has something new to bring to the table.

Proenza Schouler
Round-shouldered tweed jackets and capes, bleached slim cut jeans, low-slung flares, satin tuxedo trousers and laser cut neon cocktail dresses – this season Proenza Schouler offered the complete wardrobe for their brand’s cosmopolite cool audience.
With colours ranging from cream to ultramarine to pistachio, this was a collection that could go from day to endless night.

Stella McCartney
McCartney’s multifarious resort showing included sheer overlay pleated skirts, fringe tassel lace dresses, golden brocade print cap sleeve and short as well as bubblegum pink blazer and neon orange kick flare trousers combos.
Accessorised with sunshine yellow pointed toe platform pumps and holographic clutches, this collection made us that bit more excited for the summer.

Theyskens’ Theory
How to turn the essentials into something intriguing appeared to be the question on Olivier Theyskens’ mind this season. His answer ticked all the right boxes: oversized blazers were given an oil painting slick appearance thanks to silver velvet and watercolour-esque prints, shimmering lurex T-shirts and jumpers gained nighttime appeal and the tried but true boyfriend jean was fitted with just the right amount of slouch. Who said basic had to be boring?

Top Of The Class for Twin Magazine Blog



Every year, a new line of fashion design graduates break out of the university halls and into the daunting fashion industry. Marking this accession to independence is Graduate Fashion Week, a congregation of final year students from the UK and abroad.
Twin headed to the four-day event to discover our generation’s next fashion protégés…

The beauty in darkness is still as strong as ever judging by Natalie Martin’s – Birmingham City University – graduate designs. Although her colour palette was comprised of somber khaki, black and faded mauve shades, Martin’s sheer panelling, metallic accents and floaty chiffon skirts added just the right touch of gloomy romanticism.


Olivia Salmon’s – UCA Rochester – collection beckoned to the little girl in all of us. As much as we love being strong and steadfast women, sometimes you just want to let your hair down, grab a bouquet of baby’s breath and carelessly wander through green fields forever in hand-painted silk A-line dresses.

Northumbria University’s Rebecca Byer struck just the right balance in contrast with her looks of oversized chunky knits and voluminous Mongolian fur-trimmed coats paired with delicate gold chain shorts and finely draped jersey and velvet gowns.

Eve Jones – Manchester Metropolitan University School of Art – created a collection for the woman somewhere in between the country club and metropolis. While polo shirts, lightweight sheer fabrics, knife pleated skirts and a dash of tennis ball yellow made an ode to all things preppy, her addition of leather biker gilets and perforated shorts kept the whole feel of the collection smooth rather than stuffy.

Claire Rushby – University of Salford – also decided to take on an athletic theme with her collection, however this interpretation would be more at home in the disco than on the tennis court. Think metallic lamé fabrics, round pleated shoulder details wafting as the wearer strides across the dance floor and breathable mesh fabrics to keep your club cool.

E L Pattern – De Montfort University – wood sculpture accessorised collection was one big play on geometrics. Blazers were sliced with accurate precisions whilst fuchsia and orange single piping on all white trousers continued the disciplined theme. But thanks to the addition of sheer overlays and flatteringly cut sheath dresses, the looks were polished and refined, not harsh.