Wednesday, 11 July 2012

Crazy.Sexy.Cool. For Twin Magazine Blog

London-born photographer Kate Bellm’s work is all about letting loose. But don’t let the carefree attitude behind her images fool you: with her colourful and striking images, the young talent has already worked for clients such as Adidas, Harrods and Fleet Ilya, as well as exhibited at venues such as the Galerie M. H. Karst in Paris, alongside household names such as Terry Richardson and Nick Knight.
Twin caught up with the photography wünderkind to chat about cosmopolitan creative contrasts, Guy Bourdin and why nudity equals freedom…
What first sparked your interest in photography?
I liked everything about photography from the moment I started: playing around with different techniques in the darkroom and in camera, meeting different people all the time and making imaginary scenarios and memories that are all yours. My favourite thing about it is definitely the memories you save, imagining the photos in 30 years time when you look back on these small worlds of different people who have travelled and inspired you for all the shots.
Working between Berlin and London, what creative differences do you see between the two cities?
For me they are worlds apart. Berlin is all about characters and crazy shoots, freedom, nature and getting naked, breaking into old houses and shooting amazing untouched spots. I feel like a lot in London has been seen before as so much photography is done there and obviously the work is much more commercial and fashion based. Nevertheless, I am inspired there too, by my family and where I grew up in the countryside which evidently is the location for most of my shoots in England.
Some of your photos have a quite Guy Bourdin-esque feel to them, would you say that he is a big influence? Where else do you find inspiration?
Yeah, he totally inspires me. I have had all his books since I was a teenager and actually was just in a group show with his work! [The ICONS OF TOMORROW exhibit at Christophe Guye Galerie in Zurich] That was definitely a dream come true. Also, I am really inspired by all my friends in Berlin right now, they always come by my studio and together we think of crazy new techniques to develop my photos with and have big painting and illustration sessions together.
On the subject of Bourdin, what role does sexuality play in your work?
I just love sexy photos. I mean it’s not even underlying anymore for me unless I’m working it into a fashion shoot. I like shooting my friends naked, for me it’s complete freedom!
As female photographer how do you attempt to represent women in your images?
I represent them as free and having a good time in whatever situation we find ourselves in. I want people to realise that naked images are not a big deal, it’s actually more a state of mind of being happy with your body. But somehow without even realising it, the girls always look insanely sexy.
What work can we expect to see from you in the future?
More road trips, naked girls, skateboarders and paint bombs. Issue 2 of my zine ROCKERS is coming out next week. It will be a Girls edition, so full of all my favourite ladies. I also have a group show coming up in Berlin in September where we are building an acid forest full of colour-painted wood, space skate ramps, wigwams, bone chandeliers and other mystical wonders. Watch out for it on my blog:

First Resort for Twin Magazine Blog

From secondary season to fully-fledged collections in their own right, this past year’s fashion cycle has all been about the rise of resort. Offering the ideal transition from autumn to summer, as well as designers an opportunity to prolong their retail exposure, the season has once and for all stepped out of its main collection sister’s shadow.
From Chloé’s countryside romanticism to Givenchy’s downtown gypsy look, Twin chooses our favourite not-so-in-between collections of the season…
Alexander Wang
Wang’s aesthetic has increasingly matured since his prolific rise and this collection was a clear departure from those tank top and knit beanie days.
The designer still kept his downtown cool thanks to streamlined sleeveless puffa jackets and midriff-baring vests in patent and croc leather, but by offsetting them with front-pleated, pegged trousers and refined chiffon dresses, the looks went from everyday casual to New Yorker chic.

Every season, through the slightest tweak of a silhouette or colour alteration, Phoebe Philo manages to conjure up a new line of fashion must-haves.
Progressing from her sportswear influenced A/W 12 showing, this collection was a combination of relaxed silhouettes such as wide-legged trousers and leather jumper/jogger combos, but added that typical Celine elegance through geometric prints, clean lines and a largely black and white-colour palette.

Chloé designer Clare Waight Keller headed to the country for this collection, but those expecting Little House On The Prairie type looks are in for a big surprise.
Instead Keller took the best inspirations of rural life – think pale skye blue and neutrals, ethnic prints and crochet patterns – and infused it into the brand’s laid back romantic DNA, resulting in lightweight harem trousers, smock dresses,  waist-tie tops and scallop-edged shorts made for a summer in the city.

Christian Dior
An appropriate mix of historical references and contemporary elegance, these looks found their strength in the house of Dior’s archetypal look.
Classical waist-cinching shift dresses and tops with peplum hems were paired with cropped straight leg trousers and romantic knife-pleated chiffon skirts, whilst leather accents gave the whole collection a strikingly modern feel.

Presented in a street style photography approach, Riccardo Tisci fused strong tailoring with paisley and geometric prints for an urban bohemian look.
Leather and motif-printed capes stood alongside more relaxed silhouettes of harem trousers and silk shift dresses for a look that was truly Givenchy, but as always, has something new to bring to the table.

Proenza Schouler
Round-shouldered tweed jackets and capes, bleached slim cut jeans, low-slung flares, satin tuxedo trousers and laser cut neon cocktail dresses – this season Proenza Schouler offered the complete wardrobe for their brand’s cosmopolite cool audience.
With colours ranging from cream to ultramarine to pistachio, this was a collection that could go from day to endless night.

Stella McCartney
McCartney’s multifarious resort showing included sheer overlay pleated skirts, fringe tassel lace dresses, golden brocade print cap sleeve and short as well as bubblegum pink blazer and neon orange kick flare trousers combos.
Accessorised with sunshine yellow pointed toe platform pumps and holographic clutches, this collection made us that bit more excited for the summer.

Theyskens’ Theory
How to turn the essentials into something intriguing appeared to be the question on Olivier Theyskens’ mind this season. His answer ticked all the right boxes: oversized blazers were given an oil painting slick appearance thanks to silver velvet and watercolour-esque prints, shimmering lurex T-shirts and jumpers gained nighttime appeal and the tried but true boyfriend jean was fitted with just the right amount of slouch. Who said basic had to be boring?

Top Of The Class for Twin Magazine Blog

Every year, a new line of fashion design graduates break out of the university halls and into the daunting fashion industry. Marking this accession to independence is Graduate Fashion Week, a congregation of final year students from the UK and abroad.
Twin headed to the four-day event to discover our generation’s next fashion protégés…

The beauty in darkness is still as strong as ever judging by Natalie Martin’s – Birmingham City University – graduate designs. Although her colour palette was comprised of somber khaki, black and faded mauve shades, Martin’s sheer panelling, metallic accents and floaty chiffon skirts added just the right touch of gloomy romanticism.

Olivia Salmon’s – UCA Rochester – collection beckoned to the little girl in all of us. As much as we love being strong and steadfast women, sometimes you just want to let your hair down, grab a bouquet of baby’s breath and carelessly wander through green fields forever in hand-painted silk A-line dresses.

Northumbria University’s Rebecca Byer struck just the right balance in contrast with her looks of oversized chunky knits and voluminous Mongolian fur-trimmed coats paired with delicate gold chain shorts and finely draped jersey and velvet gowns.

Eve Jones – Manchester Metropolitan University School of Art – created a collection for the woman somewhere in between the country club and metropolis. While polo shirts, lightweight sheer fabrics, knife pleated skirts and a dash of tennis ball yellow made an ode to all things preppy, her addition of leather biker gilets and perforated shorts kept the whole feel of the collection smooth rather than stuffy.

Claire Rushby – University of Salford – also decided to take on an athletic theme with her collection, however this interpretation would be more at home in the disco than on the tennis court. Think metallic lamé fabrics, round pleated shoulder details wafting as the wearer strides across the dance floor and breathable mesh fabrics to keep your club cool.

E L Pattern – De Montfort University – wood sculpture accessorised collection was one big play on geometrics. Blazers were sliced with accurate precisions whilst fuchsia and orange single piping on all white trousers continued the disciplined theme. But thanks to the addition of sheer overlays and flatteringly cut sheath dresses, the looks were polished and refined, not harsh.